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Physical Simulation of Resonant Wave Run-up on a Beach : Volume 20, Issue 1 (09/01/2013)

By Ezersky, A.

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Book Id: WPLBN0003989207
Format Type: PDF Article :
File Size: Pages 6
Reproduction Date: 2015

Title: Physical Simulation of Resonant Wave Run-up on a Beach : Volume 20, Issue 1 (09/01/2013)  
Author: Ezersky, A.
Volume: Vol. 20, Issue 1
Language: English
Subject: Science, Nonlinear, Processes
Collections: Periodicals: Journal and Magazine Collection (Contemporary), Copernicus GmbH
Publication Date:
Publisher: Copernicus Gmbh, Göttingen, Germany
Member Page: Copernicus Publications


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Pelinovsky, E., Abcha, N., & Ezersky, A. (2013). Physical Simulation of Resonant Wave Run-up on a Beach : Volume 20, Issue 1 (09/01/2013). Retrieved from

Description: CNRS, UMR6143 – Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière (M2C), Université Caen Basse, Normandie, 24 rue des Tilleuls, 14000 Caen, France. Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (Stefanakis et al., 2011). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rogue waves in the coastal zone.

Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

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